Andrea Burton at Pontini, Singapore (**)

Amuse Bouche of Amberjack tatare, and toasted focaccia

Amberjack was very meaty, almost rich in flavour. Toasted focaccia was crisp but unevenly seasoned. Okay

Chicken thigh candied in extra olive oil, anchovies, soft quail egg and celery.

That’s actually a chicken flavoured gelatin sheet covering the entire dish, it was rubbery, chewy, and had a very artificial aftertaste, it had no place on the plate whatsoever. The thigh was nicely cooked, and the candied olive oil sauce was very interesting, other than that, nothing else really worked. Bad

Roasted prawns, buffalo ricotta cheese and black oil

Prawns were very fresh, and perfectly cooked, the sauce was incredibly rich and intense, I don’t mean to sound cheesy but you could literally taste hints of the sea in the sauce. Aesthetically, this was as beautiful as plating can get. Very Good

Grilled Scallops, peanut cream, ginger powder, and crispy seaweed.

The peanut creme was very intensely flavoured once again, and had the perfect consistency, mostly smooth but even once in a while you get a tiny nugget of a peanut. The flavours worked really well together but I felt that the scallops could have been a little fresher.

Buffalo ricotta ravioli with Sarawak pepper, parsley sauce, and  tomato powder.

Chef Burton runs a 2 Michelin star restaurant in Italy, and clearly he knows his pasta. A ravioli so soft and delicate, encapsulating an even softer center of Buffalo ricotta, this was akin to eating spherified Buffalo cheese. The parsley sauce added a nice balance to the cheese(Cant go wrong with a herbs+cheese combo), and the tomato powder added the slightest tinge of sweetness. Very good

Raw prawns risotto, coral and crustacean sauce

The risotto was cooked in a wonderful seafood stock that just kept bringing in waves and waves of flavour to the palate- mostly salty, then a slight tinge of sweetness, and the raw prawns were out of this world, hands down one of the sweetest prawns I’ve ever tasted. Superb

Paccheri pasta, black cream mozzarella cheese, and squid

The squid was cut thinly to the size and thickness of Linguine, the black cream mozzarella cheese sauce had once again a lot of depth in flavour, while keeping everything fairly subtle. I felt that the Paccheri pasta was a wrong choice for the dish because it overpowered the other soft textures and subtle flavours, half the time you were just trying to get the huge piece of pasta without looking like an idiot(and yes “I’m aware you can cut it). Okay

Black cod, Saffron emulsion, red wine and Jerusalem artichokes

I’m not a big fan of artichokes, but the artichoke chips are a prime example of how you can deep dry anything and it will taste delicious. I don’t mean to digress, because the real star of the show is the black cod, it was PERFECTLY cooked- moist, so soft it fell apart the moment you begin digging your fork into the dish. And the red wine sauce, again, as with all his other sauces, was delicious. It was first salty and acidic, then slightly sweet, and everything same together right at the end to form that familiar taste of  red wine. Very good

Lamb, smoked eggplant, and fried millefeuille potatoes

The smoked eggplant puree was surprisingly, very intensely flavoured, lamb was very nicely cooked, and you could tell the meat had good marbling. Good

Slice of turbot gratin with cedar, cocoa beans, tomato lentils

The turbot had the most amazing crust, it was almost crispy; but all this was completely undone the moment you got to the center of the fish, it was very badly cooked, very chewy in an unpleasant way. The cocoa beans didn’t bring much to the dish, but the tomato lentils were delicious, very intensely flavoured. Okay

Chocolate cream kremlin, rhubarb and meringue

This wasn’t the most interesting dessert, but it wasn’t the worst either. The chocolate cream was surprisingly light, and all the flavours worked well together, even the rhubarb, which is not a flavour profile I particularly enjoy. Okay

Steamed pear, vanilla scent, hazelnut cookie, chocolate sauce.

This was my favourite dessert of the night, the chocolate sauce was heavenly, the perfect texture(almost creamy), and right amount of darkness for the dish. The only shortcoming is the pear was not steamed enough, it could have been a lot softer and this dessert would have been amazing. Good

Tiramisu in a glass

I liked and appreciated the idea of doing a burnt chocolate crust on the tiramisu, it was a nice introduction of a crisp texture to an otherwise soft, creamy dessert, and the burst of bitterness and smoky burnt flavour was very interesting. The mascarpone and coffee creme were both surprisingly light, and he did it in such a way that the mascarpone was cold and coffee creme was warm; once again, interesting contrast in temperatures. Good

Meal was part of the World Gourmet Summit 2010

2 thoughts on “Andrea Burton at Pontini, Singapore (**)

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