Singapore

Jaan, Singapore

Potato Croquet

The croquet had a cheesy center with a sesame crust. I would have thought that the nutty-ness of the sesame would compliment the cheese quite well, but strangely, I didn’t quite enjoy the combination, plus I found the croquet a little bit too dense, might be a personal preference, but I like my amuse’s light. Bad

    

Smoked eel and pickled apples

My favourite amuse of the meal, the eel was tender and soft, the oily fish being the perfect vehicle to carry the strong smoky flavour, the apple gelee cut into the oiliness off the fish and strong smoky aroma, cleansing your palate at the same time as well. Well thought out amuse. Good

   

Rye crisps with lentil hummus, chestnut

The lentil hummus didn’t have as smooth a consistency as normal hummus, which made it a little hard to ‘spread’ onto the crisps, but the whole lentils incorporated into the hummus was a nice touch. The addition of chestnuts also gave the hummus a slightly sweet, slightly nutty aroma that paired nicely with the rye crisps. Okay

    

Cep sabayon w wild mushroom tea

A very intensely flavoured cep sabayon is the last amuse before the prix fixe dishes actually start appearing. It was impressive how much the naturally intensely flavoured cep really shone though, but it might have been too much of a good thing because by the end of that tiny cup, I really needed some water. It lacked some acidity to cut the richness of the dish, and this was alot richer than the smoked eel. I actually liked the dish but I think it is a wrong choice for an amuse bouche. Incidentally, this is the same cup Heston uses for his hot and cold tea. Okay

   

Landes foie gras – Foie gras panna cotta, Pedro Jimenez sherry,dried fruit chutney

I actually have no notes on this so I dont think this was my dish (This meal was some time ago)

   

Tourteau crab – Kohlrabi, bergamot, radish, ‘krystal’ caviar

My favourite dish of the meal. The tourteau crab was very fresh and well cooked, paired with the bergamot orange gelee; citrus and crab made for an incredible combination of flavours, the tiny spheres of caviar released bursts of briny flavour to give the crab and the whole dish a link back to its natural source. Radishes added a nice crunch to an otherwise soft dish. Good

   

Iberian black pork – Confit belly, braised cheek, grilled rib, trotter caillette, wild chantenay carrot, pickled grey shallots, roasted Cep mushroom

As delicious as this sounds, the only real standout in the dish was the belly- skin that crisped as you bit into it, meat and fat that your teeth could glide through with ease, I think to date, it is the best pork belly Ive had in Singapore, the rest of the dish was fairly mediocre. The trotter and the rib were decent, but the cheek had a glaze that was over reduced for me, it left a very gummy and sticky texture in the mouth. The choice of the other components was good, the carrots and ceps provided a earthy-ness that paired naturally with the pork, and the shallots cut the richness of the overall dish, without leaving too much acidity on the tongue. Okay

   

Choconuts ‘grand cru’ – Sable Breton Nyangbo choc mousse, guanja ice cream and macadamia nuts

Hardly an exciting dessert, chocolate and nuts rarely inspires but rarely ever goes wrong. I would guess that the coconut shavings are a play on the ‘nuts’ theme of the dish, but they actually added quite a nice contrast in texture to the dish. Looking at my picture now, Im not sure why my guanja chocolate ice cream has a mini thumb print on it. The components tasted alot better when eaten together, rather than separately; but overall, merely an updated presentation of a classic combination of flavours. Okay

   

Petites – Caramel sweet, Caramel marshmallow, choc truffle, madeline, Smoked rosemary ice cream

Everything was okay, Caramel sweet was a little tough to eat and should probably have been served with the bill. Caramel marshmellow was a little too sweet but the dark chocolate balanced that well. The smoked rosemary ice cream was served quite whimsically(lollipop?) but could have done with a stronger and more robust rosemary flavor. Okay

Andre has left huge shoes to fill at Jaan, and while I don’t sound particularly fond of alot of the dishes here, I actually had quite a nice dining experience. My main gripe was that the waiters(at least the ones that served me) didn’t have a very good grasp of English, which made it very difficult for me to note down every component of the dishes.

The view at Jaan has got to be one of the best I’ve ever been to, its a quiet restaurant that would be befitting for a special occasion, I will even go as far as to say that the view alone is worth having a meal at Jaan(probably lunch though). Although its hard to judge a restaurant based on a 3 course lunch, the food here just isn’t stellar. I like the direction of the food, alot of the it is whimsical and somewhat entertaining, with top marks going to the presentation of each plate, but the flavours don’t really ‘pop’, nothing really makes you sit up and take notice, those dishes with strong flavour seemed to lack some balance, and others were just one note. There were flashes of brilliance like the Torteau crab dish, which I can see appearing in a Michelin starred restaurant, so I do believe the kitchen is more than capable of putting out great food.

It should also be noted that there was a pre-dessert course: Blackberry gelee, vanilla panna cotta, bay leaf espuma that I didn’t take any photos of, but I believe it is the one listed in this blog, I enjoyed it more than the choconuts dessert and I would have given it a Good.

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