Singapore

&made by Bruno Menard, Singapore

The ‘B’ burger- Dry aged beef, onion confit, caper/garlic sauce and comte cheese

The beef was aged beautifully and had a distinct nutty, slightly game-y, strong beefy flavor to it. The tenderness of the beef should not be understated despite being grounded down, it had that fall apart texture that a lot of recent chefs like Blumenthal have worked towards and popularized. The onions gave the burger a sticky, caramelized sweetness that was present with every bite, but never detracted away from the flavor of the beef. The beef was near perfectly cooked for me and retained a nice pinkness in the center. I also enjoyed the sharp tanginess of the sauce. The bun was the real star of the show, unbelievably soft, with a strong buttery flavor, one of the best burger buns I’ve ever had, the only small gripe being that the bun was so soft it got squashed a little when you ate the burger, although this is a small compromise to make for an otherwise excellent burger. I had the truffle fries with this, very mediocre. Good-Very good

The 3 little pigs – Bacon, pork filet and chorizo patty, shitake mushrooms, japanese cabbage, shibazuke pickles, yuzu-kosho mayonnaise

The chorizo was too faint and a smoky oily paprika would have really made the burger pop, despite this, the burger had a strong porky flavor, that paired really nicely with the mushroom, kosho added a tiny bit of heat to the burger. The yuzu was a surprisingly nice addition as well and I thought that it contrasted the pork flavor nicely, but again, the yuzu was actually quite faint and could have been stronger. Although some of the condiments are heavily inspired by Japan, it doesn’t have the inherent delicate nature that Japanese food possesses, it should have been a rugged burger(I felt that the beef burger was) and yet it was not. Good


Lychee, rose, raspberry smoothie(Blended with yoghurt)

Severely lacking any semblance of flavor. The rose was not present, there was barely any lychee, and the raspberry was faint. The whole thing was a pretty watery mess. Bad

Molten hot caramel lava cake with vanilla ice cream coated with paillete feuilletine

The texture of the cake wasn’t great(thick, very dense, almost like is was steamed) but I’ll write that off as having been spoilt at catalunya. The caramel was quite sweet on its own, and when combined with the vanilla, it was a little cloying on the tongue; I think the caramel could have been darkened a little to introduce more bitterness. I did, however, appreciate the┬ápaillete feuilletine coating the vanilla ice cream, it added a pleasant crunchy texture to an otherwise disappointing signature dessert. Okay

Lollipop waffle with white chocolate, dark chocolate and caramel sauce

I usually love waffles but this was one of the worst I’ve had. It was slightly undercooked and retained a strong flour-y taste, it also didn’t have a particularly crisp exterior. The ergonomics of the waffle was also a little confusing, if you serve a waffle on the stick, shouldn’t the container holding the sauces be large enough to accommodate some form of a dipping action with the waffle? (It wasn’t) Or, if the container holding the sauces isn’t large enough for the waffle to be dipped, in which case you expect the diner to pour the sauce over the waffle, then shouldn’t the waffle be served without a giant skewer running through the center so that it can be cut with a knife and fork easily? (It wasn’t) Okay, I know I’m nitpicking, this isn’t a three star meal, but another issue was that the white chocolate sauce was far too thinned out and watery, the dark chocolate and caramel sauces were fine though. Bad


I don’t need to tell you about Bruno Menard or the 3 michelin stars he used to own at L’Osier. It was actually one of the highest rated French restaurants in Tokyo prior to closing, but I think the chef has let himself go with his new establishment in Singapore. Thats not to say that I expect 3 star food, far from it, but I do think its reasonable to expect a menu where dishes are well executed and taste good, this was not the case at &made. What confuses me the most is that- to a chef of Menard’s stature and palate, some of the glaringly obvious mistakes on his menu should stick out like a sore thumb, shouldn’t he know that these have to be rectified? My only guess would be that that Menard is rarely in the &made kitchen often, which makes sense since he is starting up his other eatery: a bistro called La Cantine; although to be frank, I think he doesn’t have a strong enough kitchen team at &made to let it function on its own, especially if it is unable to serve food that would pass his standards.

Despite all its shortgivings, &made does serve up a pretty damn good burger, it is very petite for a $19 burger, but it is the best item on the menu by a mile.